2. Primi (pasta, risotto), Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)17 Comments

Braciole alla Barese (Stuffed Beef Bundles)

StefanGourmet

Braciole (also spelled as Brasciole) are a typical dish from the province of Bari in Puglia. Braciole are bundles of beef, stuffed with a mixture of parsley, garlic, and cheese, and then cooked low and slow in a tomato sauce. As with many Italian recipes there are variations. According to the Italian wikipedia it is supposed to be made with horse meat rather than beef and with the addition of lard (probably because horse meat is very lean). You could also use red wine rather than wite, or basil rather than oregano. Even though this dish seems very similar to the version … Continue reading Braciole alla Barese (Stuffed Beef Bundles)

1. Antipasti (appetizers)6 Comments

Crispy! Spicy Shrimp Crackers

StefanGourmet

A few weeks ago I made Spicy Shrimp Crackers with Tuna Tartare for the first time. I was very happy with the combination of the flavors, but the crackers were not as crispy as I had hoped for. I looked up what Harold McGee has to say about crackers. He says to roll out the dough very thin and to bake in a moderate oven until dry and crisp (which is longer than I did). I asked my readers for suggestions and it was Vinny Grette who made the excellent suggestion to use a pasta machine to make them thinner (thank you!). I checked … Continue reading Crispy! Spicy Shrimp Crackers

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)13 Comments

Pasta with Roasted Cauliflower and Fat from Beef Stock

StefanGourmet

This is a very simple but amazingly delicious recipe that I discovered mostly by accident. If you make beef stock from scratch and allow it to cool, a layer of solid fat will form on the top. I always used to discard this fat, but not anymore! There is a lot of flavor in it, and together with the cauliflower, ground cumin and pecorino sardo the flavor is out of this world. So next time you make beef stock, keep the fat and make this dish. I promise you won’t regret it! This is a week night dish that is … Continue reading Pasta with Roasted Cauliflower and Fat from Beef Stock

Cooking23 Comments

Stephane’s Cheese Puffs

StefanGourmet

Cheese puffs (gougères) are really good, filled or just by themselves. They are a bit of work to make, but definitely worth it. It’s really nice how ‘light’ they are. I’ve made a double batch twice now for parties, and in both cases they were devoured in a few minutes by my friends. I got this recipe from Stéphane Gabart’s blog My French Heaven. From his blog it seems that Stéphane is as crazy about food as I am, and I really like that his blog is bilingual as it allows me to practice my French. Stéphane uses French Comté, but … Continue reading Stephane’s Cheese Puffs

1. Antipasti (appetizers)8 Comments

Pink Eggplant

StefanGourmet

Most eggplants you see are so dark purple it’s almost black. In Italy a delicate variety is cultivated with a lighter color that is almost pink and often partially white: melanzana rosa. Not only the color is more delicate, also the texture and taste are more delicate. I tasted pink eggplant for the first time at Piazza Duomo, a great restaurant in Alba, Italy. It was so tender I couldn’t believe it. If you come across one of these beauties, it’s definitely worth picking one up. If a product is as nice as this, it only needs minimal treatment. Eggplant always … Continue reading Pink Eggplant

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)14 Comments

Tortelli di Zucca

StefanGourmet

The final traditional Christmas dish from Northern Italy I made this year was Tortelli di Zucca: tortelli filled with squash or pumpkin. This dish is not from Emilia-Romagna but from Lombardia, and especially from the cities of Mantova and Cremona. The special local ingredient that gives the tortelli a unique taste is mostarda (Mostarda di Cremona or Mostarda di Mantova): fruit candied in a mustard flavored syrup. You can make mostarda yourself, but all the recipes I’ve seen require mustard oil that is as hard to get in these parts as the mostarda itself. You can still make pumpkin tortelli … Continue reading Tortelli di Zucca

1. Antipasti (appetizers)15 Comments

White Asparagus Ice Cream with Truffle

StefanGourmet

This unusual appetizer was inspired by a marvelous dish we had at El Celler de Can Roca. I am not claiming it is a recreation of the dish, it was merely inspired by it. I liked my simpler version too, and from the use of fresh black truffle it’s still not that humble. I had never made asparagus ice cream before, so I was pretty happy with how this turned out. I’ll have to think of a good substitute for the truffle (suggestions are welcome), because it’s the white asparagus ice cream that really shines here and the price of fresh truffle would … Continue reading White Asparagus Ice Cream with Truffle

4. Dolci (dessert)41 Comments

Certosino di Bologna (Fruitcake from Bologna)

StefanGourmet

Another traditional Christmas dish from Bologna with an ‘official’ recipe is Certosino or Pan Speziale (“spicy bread”). I had never made it before, but I really liked it and will certainly make it again. Originally it was named after the pharmacists (called “speziali”) that made this in medieval times, but later it was made by the monks of Certosa and named after that. The official recipe has been deposited only in 2003 and is now a “Specialità tradizionale garantita”. Italian recipes are often imprecise and this is no exception, although the quantities are specified. It reads “Amalgamare spezie, lievito, miele, zucchero, … Continue reading Certosino di Bologna (Fruitcake from Bologna)

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)34 Comments

Tortellini in Brodo

StefanGourmet

Tortellini in brodo (tortellini in broth) is a classic Christmas dish from Bologna. The tortellini need to be so small that you can eat them in a single bite, together with the broth. It is quite a bit of work to make them as well as the broth from scratch, but certainly worth it. You can make the broth and the tortellini the day before, in fact my advice would be to do that. Officially you need a capon (neutered rooster) to make the broth, but a plump farm chicken will do. Tortelli and tortellini are the typical stuffed pasta shapes from … Continue reading Tortellini in Brodo

1. Antipasti (appetizers)14 Comments

Spicy Shrimp Crackers with Tuna Tartare

StefanGourmet

I have almost two weeks off from work, which gives me more time than usual to experiment. About a month ago we had a dish at Lasarte in Barcelona that I really liked: spicy shrimp trackers with tuna tartare. The combination of the spicy crispy shrimp with the tuna worked very well, so I wanted to try something similar. I was quite happy with the result, the only thing I would like to improve is the crispiness of the crackers. Do you think you have an idea to make them more crispy? Please leave a comment! Update January 11, 2013: … Continue reading Spicy Shrimp Crackers with Tuna Tartare

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)11 Comments

Chicken Cordon Bleu

StefanGourmet

Cordon Bleu was one of my favorite dishes as a kid. I hadn’t eaten it for years, but when I was thinking about what to do with the organic chicken breast I had left from the whole chicken I had used to make brodo for tortellini, I decided it would be nice to make cordon bleu again. It can’t be a surprise that cordon bleu is really good if made from scratch with good chicken, good ham, and good cheese. It is quite different from something store-bought where the ham, cheese, and chicken are probably all of the ‘processed’ variety. Cordon … Continue reading Chicken Cordon Bleu

4. Dolci (dessert)19 Comments

Mince Pie à la Conor

StefanGourmet

Mince pie is a traditional Christmas dessert on the British isles. I had never had mincemeat pie before, and always thought it was a savory pie containing meat. I had not decided on a dessert for Christmas this year, and when I read about Conor’s Mince Pie I decided that would be my Christmas dessert this year. We all loved the very full flavor of the mincemeat, so it was a big success. This is another great example of a blog-inspired new dish that I probably never would have made without Conor’s post. So thanks Conor! I’ve never had mince pie before so … Continue reading Mince Pie à la Conor

Eating6 Comments

Dining in the Netherlands: De Kromme Watergang**

StefanGourmet

Each year for the anniversary of our first date we go out to dinner on December 23 or 24 (the official date is December 24, but it’s not always possible to dine on that date due to restaurants preparing for Christmas). Last year we went to La Torre del Saracino near Naples, but this year we stayed closer to home and went to De Kromme Watergang in Zeeland. This is in the far South-West of the Netherlands, almost in Belgium and close to Oud Sluis. De Kromme Watergang is the restaurant of chef Edwin and maitre Blanche Vinke, but unfortunately … Continue reading Dining in the Netherlands: De Kromme Watergang**

Cooking10 Comments

Not decided yet what you are going to cook for Christmas?

StefanGourmet

I’ve been cooking Christmas dinner for my parents every year for about 20 years now. I’ve already decided on the menu for this year, but I can’t post the recipes yet as most are new recipes that I can only share with you after I’ve made them and taken pictures. The only recipe that I’m going to make that I’ve blogged about before is Corn Soup with Crab. If you’re still undecided what you are going to cook for Christmas this year, perhaps the following suggestions can be helpful. They are recipes that I posted over the last year that … Continue reading Not decided yet what you are going to cook for Christmas?

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)7 Comments

Penne with Bell Peppers and Pancetta

StefanGourmet

This is a quick and simple weekday pasta dish that came about when I wanted to make Penne with Bell Peppers and Salami, but only had pancetta available. You could also think of this as Penne all’Amatriciana with added bell peppers. This dish turned out to be better balanced than the version with salami, as that is a bit high in acidity. But the most important thing is that you get a lot of flavor for not a lot of work. Ingredients For 2 servings 2 red bell peppers 100 grams (4 oz) of pancetta, diced 150-200 grams (1/3-1/2 pound) … Continue reading Penne with Bell Peppers and Pancetta

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)11 Comments

Pork Roast with Sweet-and-Sour Onions (Arrosto di Maiale con Cipolle in Agrodolce)

StefanGourmet

I’ve adapted this pork dish from one of Biba Caggiano’s recipes from the region Emilia-Romagna. The pork goes really well with the sweet and sour onions. Separately they are both good, but together they are delicious. You can roast the … Continue reading Pork Roast with Sweet-and-Sour Onions (Arrosto di Maiale con Cipolle in Agrodolce)

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)9 Comments

Smoked Eel and Celeriac Risotto (Risotto Anguille e Sedano Rapa)

StefanGourmet

Two typical Dutch ingredients are smoked eel and celeriac (aka celery root). In Dutch cooking, they are sometimes combined in celeriac soup with smoked eel. I thought it would be worth trying some Dutch-Italian fusion and make a smoked eel and celeriac risotto. I loved the result and will definitely make it again. A nice thing about the smoked eel is that it is a “mile 0” product, as the eel is caught and smoked in the town where I live. Smoked eel is a delicacy because it melts on your tongue and has a very nice full flavor. It … Continue reading Smoked Eel and Celeriac Risotto (Risotto Anguille e Sedano Rapa)

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)16 Comments

Pumpkin Gnocchi (Gnocchi di Zucca)

StefanGourmet

I had some leftover pumpkin puree from my first attempt at pumpkin pie, and decided to make some pumpkin gnocchi with it. If you don’t have any pumpkin puree lying around, you can see how to make pumpkin puree there. The key to good gnocchi of any kind is to add as little flour as possible to keep them light and fluffy. If you add to much flour, they will become like rubber. It is important to use a pumpkin or squash with some taste for this, as the recipe is very basic and doesn’t have a lot of other … Continue reading Pumpkin Gnocchi (Gnocchi di Zucca)

2. Primi (pasta, risotto), Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)15 Comments

Beef Ragù Napoletano (Primo + Secondo)

StefanGourmet

Ragù Napoletano is a traditional dish from Naples, Italy that is mostly eaten on Sundays. Large pieces of beef and pork are cooked low and slow in a tomato sauce, and then the meat-flavored tomato sauce is served over pasta as the primo piatto, followed by the meat with a bit of the sauce as the secondo piatto. I made this with a nicely marbled piece of Irish Angus chuck roast I had picked up, but you could also use other (tough) cuts of beef as well as pork. A mixture of different kinds of meat will give a fuller flavor. Fusilli … Continue reading Beef Ragù Napoletano (Primo + Secondo)

1. Antipasti (appetizers)12 Comments

Foie Gras Sous-vide with Sauternes, Beetroot and Roquefort

StefanGourmet

Georges Pralus of Restaurant Troisgros in Roanne, France, discovered that foie gras cooked sous-vide kept its original appearance, did not lose excess amounts of fat and had better texture. This was a major step in the development of sous-vide techniques for the restaurant and home kitchens. Although I’ve been cooking sous-vide, I had not cooked foie gras sous-vide yet. Since it was such a breakthrough dish, I felt I had to give it a try. The combination of foie gras with the botrytis dessert wine sauternes is famous, and since sauternes is also good with roquefort and roquefort is good … Continue reading Foie Gras Sous-vide with Sauternes, Beetroot and Roquefort

1. Antipasti (appetizers)12 Comments

Russian Salad

StefanGourmet

As part of the project of making ‘snackbar’ food from scratch, I thought there should also be a vegetable dish on the menu. Vegetables are not a popular menu item in these ‘restaurants’, unless you count potatoes and ketchup as vegetables. I decided to make a Russian Salad (known as “Huzarensalade” in Dutch, named after hussars, the light cavalry that comes from Russia and other Eastern European countries). Russian Salad consists of boiled potatoes, boiled vegetables, ham, and mayonnaise. I left out the ham to make a vegetarian version, but you could of course include it again. Russian Salad has … Continue reading Russian Salad

Basics18 Comments

Home-made Mayonnaise

StefanGourmet

One of the basics that many people fear is making your own mayonnaise from scratch. It is actually quite easy if you follow three rules: make sure the egg yolks and the oil are the same (room) temperature, separate the egg yolks neatly, and start by adding the oil drop for drop. It also helps to have an electric appliance (mixer, food processor, blender) to do the whisking for you, but you can also make it by hand. Mayonnaise is one of the basic sauces, and in the Netherlands and Belgium it can’t be missed with fries. Mayonnaise is an … Continue reading Home-made Mayonnaise

1. Antipasti (appetizers)15 Comments

Corn Soup with Crab

StefanGourmet

When I read about the “Luscious Creamy Corn Soup with Crab” on Richard McGary’s blog REMCooks, I immediately knew I just had to try this. I hardly ever cook with either corn or crab, so this would be something new and exciting. It was quite a bit of work, but it turned out great! This is a very elegant dish for a fancy dinner party or special occasion. Thanks for the idea, Richard! The local North Sea crab is a bit different from the king crab that Richard used. King crab is available here, but only deep frozen and ridiculously … Continue reading Corn Soup with Crab

Contorni (side dishes)7 Comments

Chervil Root and Parsley Root

StefanGourmet

I found some interesting new types of root vegetable that are not very common: chervil root and parsley root. Both are roots of the better-known herbs (especially parsley), cultivated especially for the roots. Parsley roots can easily be mistaken for parnips and are of a similar size but taste like parsley. Chervil roots look like short golden carrots, feel light compared to their size and have a sweet nutty flavor. Chervil roots are quite expensive, but parsley roots are priced similarly to parsnips. Both can be prepared in several ways, including roasting, making puree, or deep-frying. In this case I … Continue reading Chervil Root and Parsley Root

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)22 Comments

Neck of Lamb Sous-Vide

StefanGourmet

The ‘secondo’ (main dish) for my lamb extravaganza was this: neck of lamb sous-vide, rack of lamb, parsley root puree and roasted chervil root, served with a lamb jus. The recipes for the parsley root and chervil root will follow in my next post, this post will deal with the neck of lamb. The neck is one of the tastiest cuts of lamb, but also one of the toughest because the neck musles are used a lot. It is ideally suited for cooking sous-vide, which will make it melt-in-your-mouth tender while keeping it succulent. For a good crispy crust I both … Continue reading Neck of Lamb Sous-Vide

Basics28 Comments

Lamb Stock

StefanGourmet

A lamb menu (more about that in yesterday’s post) would not be complete without sauces based on stock made from the bones and scraps of meat from the same lamb. And so I asked the butcher for some of the bones and used them to make a stock. Making a meat stock is very easy and doesn’t take a lot of active time. The process is the same for most types of stock, the main difference is that in lamb stock you use bones from lamb, in beef stock from beef, etc. The quality of the stock is very important … Continue reading Lamb Stock

1. Antipasti (appetizers)14 Comments

Smoked Ham of Lamb

StefanGourmet

I had picked up a very nice double magnum of 1998 red Sancerre from Henri Bourgeois at the winery, and decided to open it for a dinner party with friends who I knew would enjoy it. A double magnum equals 4 regular bottles, so I had to think of several dishes that would be eaten with this wine. I decided that if we would drink one wine with all three savory dishes of the meal (antipasto, primo, secondo), then an appropriate theme would be to base all the dishes on the same main ingredient. Since red sancerre (similar to red … Continue reading Smoked Ham of Lamb