Tag: cooking

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)2 Comments

Tagliatelle Verdi con Ragù Bianco

StefanGourmet

My love for the Italian kitchen has partly originated from a woman whom I’ve never had the pleasure to meet: Biba Caggiano. She is an Italian from Bologna who moved to the USA in 1960 and later opened her own restaurant in Sacramento (where I have eaten in 2009, but sadly she wasn’t around herself because she was sick at the time — best authentic Italian food I’ve eaten in the USA despite her absence) and wrote many cookbooks. I received one of her first books, Modern Italian Cooking as a birthday gift in 1998. Trying the recipes in this … Continue reading Tagliatelle Verdi con Ragù Bianco

Dutch cuisine21 Comments

Dutch Easter bread (Paasstol)

StefanGourmet

One of the traditional treats for Easter in the Netherlands is a “paasstol”: a bread filled with raisins and almond paste. The same bread is also made with Christmas and then called “kerststol”. Other than the name, there is no real difference. In many cases the filling also contains candied fruits and hazelnuts, but I prefer just raisins. A similar bread is made in Germany and then called “Stollen” (Weihnachtsstollen, Christstollen). Instead of proper almond paste, a store-bought stol will in many cases contain ‘confectioner’s paste’ (“banketbakkersspijs”) which is actually made from beans instead of almonds. It is of course … Continue reading Dutch Easter bread (Paasstol)

Cooking9 Comments

Sous-vide egg

StefanGourmet

For Easter it is a tradition in the Netherlands, as in many other places around the world, to eat lots of eggs. Conor’s post about poached eggs reminded me that I had not yet blogged about eggs sous-vide. Cooking an egg sous-vide was the first thing I tried with my sous-vide water bath about 15 months ago, that was basically the ‘christening’ of the water bath. At 64C/147F The egg whites came out a bit softer than I liked. I needed to go to 67C/152F to get the egg whites just set, but by then the egg yolk didn’t have the … Continue reading Sous-vide egg

Cooking7 Comments

Cooking from scratch

StefanGourmet

When I’m cooking, I make almost everything from scratch using good quality ingredients. Often (but not always) it’s more work than something from a store-bought package or jar, but since I actually like to cook that is not a big problem and there are many advantages: Food cooked from scratch usually tastes better If you cook food from scratch, you actually know what you’re eating and it’s healthier Food cooked from scratch is often cheaper And the most important one: cooking food from scratch is fun and rewarding! It’s not really difficult, and practice will make it even easier. I’ve … Continue reading Cooking from scratch

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)3 Comments

Beetroot gnocchi (Gnocchi di barbabietole)

StefanGourmet

After a less than fully satisfactory first attempt last week at making beetroot gnocchi that did not turn out as ‘beetrooty’ as I had wanted, my second attempt was a success! More beetroot flavor with a simpler recipe. I served them with a gorgonzola sauce. To make the beetroot flavor stand out even more, you could serve them with a lighter sauce. The combination with gorgonzola works well, though. Ingredients For 2 generous servings 750 grams (1.6 lbs) beetroots 1 egg yolk 50 grams (1.8 oz) flour (Italian 00) 50 grams (1.8 oz) potato starch salt bit of semolina flour for … Continue reading Beetroot gnocchi (Gnocchi di barbabietole)

1. Antipasti (appetizers)8 Comments

Venetian marinated Mackerel ‘in saor’ sous-vide

StefanGourmet

A classic and delicious dish from Venice is pesce in saôr, which does not mean ‘sour’ fish but ‘flavored’ fish (saôr comes from ‘sapore’). The recipe was invented in Venice as a way to preserve fish, and even though we have refrigerators nowadays we still make it because it is so tasty! In this modern version I’ve made two changes to the classical recipe: I’ve used mackerel rather than the more usual white fish (such as cod or hake) and I’ve cooked the fish sous-vide. When you use white fish, the subtle flavor of the fish will be overpowered by the … Continue reading Venetian marinated Mackerel ‘in saor’ sous-vide

4. Dolci (dessert)4 Comments

Black Forest Cake

StefanGourmet

I’ve always liked Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, but this is the first time I’ve made a Black Forest Cake from scratch. It turned out great, although my cake-decorating skills are not outstanding. Ingredients For the cake (24 cm/9″ springform pan) 75 grams butter 140 grams dark chocolate 100 grams flour 15 grams baking powder 50 grams corn starch 6 eggs 180 grams sugar (preferably vanilla-scented by keeping used vanilla beans in the sugar jar) For the filling 500 grams (net weight) pitted sour cherries with syrup from a can or jar, preferably Italian amarene 70 ml kirsch (cherry brandy) 750 ml whipping cream … Continue reading Black Forest Cake

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)7 Comments

35aweek’s Pasta with Cabbage and Gorgonzola

StefanGourmet

After the success with the parsnip ragù from $35 a week I decided to try her recipe for pasta with cabbage and gorgonzola well. I’m always looking for new ways to use vegetables, especially if I don’t eat them very often like cabbage. This recipe is very simple, quick and tasty, especially if you like blue cheese because that’s what it tastes like! With pasta dishes I always try to match the texture of the pasta with the texture of the sauce (or create a contrast on purpose). Since this sauce has a ‘fine’ texture, I decided to use gnocchetti rather … Continue reading 35aweek’s Pasta with Cabbage and Gorgonzola

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)2 Comments

Orecchiette with Endive and Pancetta (Orecchiette Indivia e Pancetta)

StefanGourmet

This is my most successful attempt at Dutch-Italian fusion and I make it quite often as it is as quick and easy to prepare as it is delicious! The flavors of the bitter endive, the sweet pancetta, the freshness of the white wine and the heartiness (umami) of the parmigiano blend really well. Just like most Italian dishes, the result will depend on the quality of the ingredients. This dish will taste best if you use actual pancetta, fresh endive (rather than already cut when you buy it), freshly grated nutmeg, freshly grated parmigiano and artisan orechiette. The classic Dutch … Continue reading Orecchiette with Endive and Pancetta (Orecchiette Indivia e Pancetta)

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)1 Comment

35aweek’s Beef & parsnip ragù (Ragù di manzo e pastinaca)

StefanGourmet

I saw the recipe for Wine-braised beef & parsnip ragù on 35aweek‘s blog and thought it could be good, even though I had never tasted or heard of this combination. So I decided to give it a try, sticking mostly to her recipe. Cooking beef and vegetables in the same stew is always a challenge since the temperature needed to cook the vegetables is too high to cook meat without drying it out, but this recipe works around that by shredding the beef. The good thing about drying out the beef is that the flavor doesn’t just disappear but ends … Continue reading 35aweek’s Beef & parsnip ragù (Ragù di manzo e pastinaca)

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)1 Comment

Beetroot gnocchi: not as beetrooty as I wanted

StefanGourmet

I wanted to try making beetroot gnocchi. Most recipes I found on the internet seemed to be more about the color than the taste of beetroot, since only small quantities of beetroot were used. So I tried to make it with as much beetroot as possible and they turned out fine, but did not have a strong taste of beetroot. Perhaps it was the quality of the beetroots I used or perhaps I should try to use even more beetroot, but that will be pushing it in terms of making sure that the gnocchi will not disintegrate during cooking. So … Continue reading Beetroot gnocchi: not as beetrooty as I wanted

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)7 Comments

Fusilli ai Peperoni (Pasta with roasted peppers)

StefanGourmet

A simple and healthy dish with a delicious flavor: pasta with roasted peppers. The other flavors (basil, anchovies, garlic, chilli pepper) are only used to support and enhance the flavor of roasted peppers. Ingredients For 2 servings 150-200 grams (1/3-1/2 pound) of fusilli or other short pasta such as rigatoni 2 red peppers 500 grams (1 pound) plum tomatoes 3 anchovy fillets, minced (optional) 1 clove garlic, minced dried chilli pepper olive oil salt 6 leaves basil Preparation Preheat the oven to 250C/480F. Brush the red peppers lightly with olive oil. This helps to cook the skin at a higher … Continue reading Fusilli ai Peperoni (Pasta with roasted peppers)

Secondi di Pesce (fish dishes)12 Comments

Prosciutto-wrapped Monkfish sous-vide

StefanGourmet

Simple but delicious: monkfish wrapped in prosciutto di parma. Slightly crispy prosciutto on the outside, tender juicy fish on the inside. If you don’t have a sous-vide water bath, you can get a similar result (still great but not as juicy) with an oven and an instant-read meat thermometer. Ingredients For each serving 120 grams (4 oz) monkfish fillet (Dutch: zeeduivel; French: lotte; Italian: rana pescatrice, coda di rospo) 2 thin slices of prosciutto di parma salt Preparation Ask your fishmonger to remove the slimy skin. Rinse the monkfish under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Cut into … Continue reading Prosciutto-wrapped Monkfish sous-vide

Dutch cuisine4 Comments

Hotchpotch with sous-vide braised beef (Hutspot met draadjesvlees)

StefanGourmet

One of my favorite traditional Dutch dishes is “hutspot met draadjesvlees”: mashed potatoes, carrots and onions with braised beef and gravy. According to legend the recipe originates from the Siege of Leiden in 1574, but that cannot be accurate because potatoes were not eaten in Holland yet at that time (so it was probably parsnip back then). The traditional preparation means that you boil the potatoes, carrots and onions in ample water, but to amplify the flavor I sauté the onions in butter and use as little water as possible. I’ve braised the beef sous-vide for additional juicyness and tenderness. … Continue reading Hotchpotch with sous-vide braised beef (Hutspot met draadjesvlees)

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)5 Comments

Pork shoulder sous-vide

StefanGourmet

I’ve made pork shoulder sous-vide before, and that was pretty good in a tender medium-rare style (cooked at 55C/131F for 48 hours). This time I wanted a “braised” texture, and so tried 36 hours at 65C/149F as advised in Modernist Cuisine. It came out very nice: juicy and so tender you could eat it with a fork. Here’s what I did. I used a piece of boneless pork shoulder with some nice marbling. The meat will turn out dry if you use very lean meat in this preparation. First I made a rub of some fresh sage leaves, salt and … Continue reading Pork shoulder sous-vide

Secondi di Pesce (fish dishes)10 Comments

Experiment with the Girardet method for broiling fish

StefanGourmet

When I started this blog, I wrote that I would “strive to share every single interesting experience with respect to food and wine”. This means sharing both the successes and the failures. Although the result of this experiment was certainly edible and not bad, it was not the “magical” result that I was hoping for. I’m going through “Modernist Cuisine”, the amazing set of books by Nathan Myhrvold et al. On pages 2-24 and 2-25 the “Girardet Method” for broiling fish is described. Fish is simultaneously broiled and poached in white wine. It didn’t look too hard to do and … Continue reading Experiment with the Girardet method for broiling fish

Cooking5 Comments

Mackerel & Sauerkraut Quiche

StefanGourmet

Mackerel is healthy to eat because of the omega-3 fatty acids it contains. After discovering by accident that sauerkraut and smoked mackerel go really well together, I decided to try making a mackerel & sauerkraut quiche. And guess what? It was really good, so I’ve been making it more often since. Apart from the baking time it doesn’t take much time to make it at all, as little as 5 minutes if you use a store-bought pie crust for the quiche. I’ve found that it’s not easy to make a better pie crust yourself than what you can buy in the … Continue reading Mackerel & Sauerkraut Quiche

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)11 Comments

Pasta with chicken, pesto, haricots verts, and sundried tomatoes

StefanGourmet

This is the first Italian-style dish that I created myself and I’m still making it on a regular basis because it’s so good. It’s not authentic and the odds are against me that an Italian would ever make a similar dish, but who cares as long as it’s good 😉 This is simple home cooking and not haute cuisine. I created this dish in the late nineties because I thought that since pesto goes well with chicken, pesto goes well with haricots verts and pesto goes well with sundried tomatoes, the combination of all of them should be nice. And … Continue reading Pasta with chicken, pesto, haricots verts, and sundried tomatoes

Basics8 Comments

How to make your own Pesto alla Genovese

StefanGourmet

Pesto is one of those things that is so much better when you make it yourself rather than buy it in a store! I’m talking about the most common and famous type of pesto here: Pesto alla Genovese. This sauce is made from basil, pine nuts, garlic, extra virgin olive oil, parmigiano reggiano, aged pecorino, and some salt. If you buy a jar of pesto in a store, chances are that it will contain parsley, sunflower oil, cashew nuts, or even potato. Not to mention preservatives. But the worst problem is that store-bought pesto in most cases has a strong … Continue reading How to make your own Pesto alla Genovese

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)17 Comments

Saltimbocca alla Romana (Veal scaloppine with prosciutto and sage)

StefanGourmet

Saltimbocca literally means “jump in the mouth” because it’s so delicious. Fortunately, it’s just as easy to make them as they are delicious. There are many variations of saltimbocca, some even substitute veal for chicken or pork, but the constant factor is the mouth-watering combination of tender veal scaloppine with prosciutto di Parma and fresh sage. Some use butter, some use olive oil. Some use flour to dust before cooking, others don’t. Some cook the prosciutto side first, some the veal side. Some put the sage on the outside, others on the inside. Some use veal or chicken stock for … Continue reading Saltimbocca alla Romana (Veal scaloppine with prosciutto and sage)

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)9 Comments

Pappardelle ai funghi (Pappardelle with mushrooms)

StefanGourmet

A long-time favorite of Kees is home-made pappardelle with mushrooms. So when I asked him what he’d like to eat, it wasn’t a surprise that he asked for this dish. If fresh porcini mushrooms are available, you could of course use those. But since they are hardly ever available at a good quality around here, I usually make this with dried porcini mushrooms. This has the added advantage that you can use the soaking liquid for the sauce. You could also make this pasta with store-bought pappardelle, but it’s better with home-made because of the more interesting texture. Ingredients For … Continue reading Pappardelle ai funghi (Pappardelle with mushrooms)

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)9 Comments

Lemon-Basil Chicken breast sous-vide

StefanGourmet

Believe it or not, but after experimenting with sous-vide cooking for over a year now, I’ve just tried chicken breast sous-vide for the frist time! This is because I usually stick to chicken thighs, which have more flavor and are juicier and when properly cooked are just as tender as chicken breast. But after some raves about chicken breast sous-vide I thought I’d give it a try. The verdict: I still prefer chicken thighs, but the chicken breast sous-vide wasn’t bad at all! Whenever you eat chicken, make sure to invest in at least some quality. You don’t want chicken … Continue reading Lemon-Basil Chicken breast sous-vide

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)12 Comments

Risotto ai gamberoni (Risotto with jumbo shrimp)

StefanGourmet

When you are cooking with jumbo shrimp, always try to buy them with heads and shells on and peel them yourself. It is a little bit of work, but you can make a delicious stock from the heads and shells that is excellent to make a risotto or paella or to use for pasta sauce. If you are not using the heads and shells straight away, just throw them in the freezer until you do. Next time you will be able to make this very tasty risotto, for which you will need more heads and shells than than you will … Continue reading Risotto ai gamberoni (Risotto with jumbo shrimp)

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)64 Comments

Sous-vide to the next level: tenderizing beef by ‘warm ageing’

StefanGourmet

Wow! I was reading the amazing set of books “Modernist Cuisine” by Nathan Myhrvold et al. and came across the suggestion (on page 3-78) to tenderize beef by boosting the activity of calpain and cathepsin enzymes in the meat through bringing the meat to temperatures of 39C/103F for calpains and 49C/120F for cathepsins. These are the same enzymes that are at work when meat is aged at refrigerator temperatures (both for dry ageing and for ageing in vacuum), but much faster and (compared to dry ageing) without drying the meat. Although it is described as a strategy to improve tenderness, … Continue reading Sous-vide to the next level: tenderizing beef by ‘warm ageing’

Cooking8 Comments

Pizza with roasted vegetables

StefanGourmet

Kees felt like having pizza and I had picked up lots of vegetables and so decided to go for a veggie pizza for a change. It turned out great! Ingredients For 2 thin pizza crusts 250 grams flour (preferably Italian 00) 150 ml lukewarm water 1.5 tsp salt 1 tsp sugar 10 grams fresh yeast 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil For the toppings 1 eggplant (aubergine) 1 zucchini (courgette) 1 bunch of green asparagus (450 grams/1 pound) 2 red peppers 175 ml (2/3 cup) passata (sieved tomatoes) 250 grams (1/2 pound) mozzarella 1-2 tsp dried oregano salt and freshly … Continue reading Pizza with roasted vegetables